Danish silversmith and designer, Georg Jensen, has undoubtedly left a lasting mark on the landscape of jewellery fashions. From his beginnings during the age of Art Nouveau through to his death in 1935, Georg Jensen created innovative jewellery designs echoing forms of nature and geometry. His designs and collaborations put him at the forefront of Danish design in the early to mid-20th century.
Today, antique Georg Jensen jewellery commands a high premium at auction, with many designs becoming collector’s pieces. In addition to this, Jensen’s company continues to produce high-fashion and high-quality jewellery.
So, with this in mind, let’s take a look at some of the most sought-after pieces of Georg Jensen jewellery, from the mid-20th century through to the modern day.
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Silver & Gold Gem-Set Georg Jensen Jewellery from the Mid-20th Century
These leaf pattern earrings are indicative of Jensen’s Art Nouveau influences.
The most sought-after pieces of Georg Jensen jewellery hail from the early to the mid-20th century, specifically pieces with hallmarks that date from pre-1950. Pieces made from silver or gold and set with gems are of high value.
For example, the Tendril design jewellery, often rings and bracelets set with gems, commands high prices at auction. The leaf pattern pieces are also important in the history of George Jensen. Jensen pieces were set with a wide variety of gemstones including diamonds, rubies, moonstones, emeralds, sapphires, and topaz. Such pieces are exceedingly rare and very collectible.
Collaborative Georg Jensen Jewellery with Famous Designers
This Vivianna Torun necklace features a semi-precious moonstone.
The Georg Jensen brand has collaborated with several high fashion designers in its lifetime. These collaborative pieces can also command a premium.
Some of the most notable collaborators include Arno Malinowski, Henning Koppel, Harald Nielsen, Vivianna Torun, and Astrid Fog.
Henning Koppel, for example, is widely regarded as one of the quintessential Danish designers of the 20th century. He vastly influenced the design of Georg Jensen jewellery with modernist shapes and clean lines that have become synonymous with Georg Jensen today.
Additionally, Vivianna Torun was instrumental in introducing semi-precious stones to Jensen’s line of silver jewellery, wishing to make pieces more accessible and wearable for the working woman.
The Henning Koppel Splash
The ‘Splash’ design, by Henning Koppel, is one of Jensen’s most famous designs.
The ‘Splash’ design, by Henning Koppel, is perhaps one of the most recognisable and iconic pieces of Jensen jewellery. Using his signature, flowing-form style, Koppel created the modern yet simple design in 1946. The design went on to become emblematic of high-quality Jensen jewellery in the mid-20th century.
The ‘Splash’ design has since stood the test of time and is popular even today, mostly in silver and 18ct gold. An 18ct gold ‘Splash’ necklace sold at auction in 2020 for £4,400.
In addition, Koppel’s ‘Splash’ designs command high premiums at retail, with the silver iterations of the same designs also selling for thousands of pounds.
The ‘Fusion’ Collection
This gold and diamond ring is from the ‘Fusion’ collection, and can be interlocked with other ‘Fusion’ pieces.
The most commercially popular modern collection in Georg Jensen jewellery is the ‘Fusion’ collection. Marrying Jensen’s classic designs with a modern twist, the ‘Fusion’ collection combines the different types of gold – yellow, rose, and white – in many different designs to reflect a wide range of tastes.
Some of the pieces, such as the ‘Fusion’ rings, are also designed to slot together so that a wearer can combine pieces to mirror their style preferences.
The pieces are often set with diamonds and sapphires.
Georg Jensen Novelty Egg & Chick Charms
The novelty egg & chick charms have become a collector’s item.
In the Victorian era, novelty pieces of jewellery depicting motifs such as animals or vegetables were extremely popular. Jensen brought this style into the mid-20th century with his 9ct gold egg and chick charms, as well as other novelty pieces.
The egg and chick charms feature a golden egg that is hinged at the back and opens to reveal a chick inside. In some designs the chick was gold and in others it was enamel.
Today, the Jensen egg and chick charms are extremely rare and highly sought-after as collector’s items. The same can be said for Jensen’s other novelty pieces such as brooches depicting deer, squirrels, and birds.
Georg Jensen 18ct Gold Rings
This 18ct gold ‘Askill’ ring is an extremely popular piece.
18ct gold rings have always been a status symbol in jewellery. Georg Jensen has a wide range of 18ct gold ring designs. The most popular collections for such rings are the ‘Fusion’ collection, the ‘Magic’ collection, the ‘Askill’ collection, and the ‘Carnival’ collection.
The ‘Magic’ collection uses yellow and white gold to mirror the forms of nature. Rings in this collection include diamond solitaire and gold band rings. The ‘Askill’ collection is famous for its butterfly motifs, often set with diamonds, and the ‘Carnival’ collection is well-known for its bold crossover rings. These rings often contain gems such as moonstone and garnet.
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