Pocket watches have long been cherished as both fashionable accessories and reliable timepieces. Since their invention in Nuremberg in 1510, they have evolved from practical tools for timekeeping to symbols of status, achieving widespread popularity by the 19th century. In the modern day, pocket watches have largely been replaced by wristwatches and digital watches. However, the pocket watch is still a revered timepiece amongst collectors, enthusiasts, and those seeking to make a distinctive fashion statement.
If you are looking to purchase a pocket watch the number of styles and complications added over the years can seem daunting. So, today we will demystify the common pocket watch styles so that you can choose the perfect timepiece for you.
Free Expert Pocket Watch Valuations
Use the form below or send images of your pocket watch to be connected with a pocket watch expert.
Open-Faced Pocket Watches
Open-faced (or Lepine) pocket watches are those without a cover protecting the crystal or glass on the watch face. The style is named for Jean-Antoine Lépine who, in 1764, devised a manufacturing method for pocket watches that would make them thinner and more accessible. He is often credited with the creation of the modern pocket watch.
Lepine pocket watches are perfect for those who value convenience and efficiency. The lack of any watch face cover means that the time can be read quickly. It is also lighter and slimmer than a half-hunter or full-hunter pocket watch, making it easier to carry around.
In terms of aesthetics, Lepine pocket watches enjoy a sleek and minimal design which might better appeal to modern styles.
However, with no cover protecting the crystal or glass on the watch face, Lepine pocket watches are more prone to scratches or accidental damage.
Half-Hunter Pocket Watches
Half-hunter pocket watches are those that have a hinged metal cover that protects the watch face. The cover has a small window or aperture that allows the wearer to read the time without fully removing the cover.
Demi Savonnette is the French term for a half-hunter pocket watch, derived from the distinctive shape of the additional cover on hunter watches, which is said to resemble a round bar of soap—referred to as a “Savonnette” in French.
Half-hunter pocket watches gained significant popularity in Victorian-era Britain when the Industrial Revolution and reliance on accurate timekeeping made them extremely useful. Railway workers, military officers, and professionals were fond of the half-hunter. They were both practical and stylish, with the cover providing protection for the delicate watch face.
Additionally, the cases of half-hunter pocket watches could be decorated or inlaid with gems to signify status.
Whilst half-hunter pocket watches are often viewed as more traditionally stylish than Lepine pocket watches, the addition of the cover means extra weight and added complexity should repairs need to be done.
Full-Hunter Pocket Watches
Full-hunter pocket watches are those with a protective metal lid covering the watch face, with no window to view the time. The cover was typically spring-loaded, designed to pop open at the press of a button, allowing the time to be easily read. Classic hunter watches feature a hinge positioned at 9 o’clock and the crown with the release button located at 3 o’clock.
The term ‘hunter’ originated in the UK and was coined because this style of pocket watch was particularly popular with hunters – they could open and view the watch with one hand, whilst holding the reigns of their horse or their gun in the other. These watches are called ‘Savonettes’ in French.
The full-hunter is the most robust style of pocket watch, offering maximum protection for the crystal or glass watch face and for the inner watch mechanisms. However, they can become cumbersome over time, and the continued use of the hinges can result in increased wear.
A Handy Infographic
If you are interested in selling your pocket watch and would like to know how much it is worth, click here.
Want to decipher the gold hallmarks on your pocket watch? Read this handy guide.
